This city plays host to three of the most popular religions on the planet. This is no more apparent than in the Old City of Jerusalem. Before I write any more of this installment, it is imperative that the readers know that this author is agnostic, bordering on atheistic. It will help to explain my perspective and the somewhat irreverent tone of what you are about to see and read. One of the days I spent in Jerusalem happened to be Good Friday, which this year happened to coincide with the Jewish Passover holiday. As is typical the Muslims were also observing and obeying their rigorous religious rituals that day. It was a “Perfect Storm” of religion.
As a result of having thousands and thousands of people here, the narrow streets were incredible congested and not passable without an abundance of patience. The military and police presence was strong and omnipresent. At times the crowds were restrained by military barricades. It caused me to feel both safe and threatened simultaneously. I was more concerned with being trampled than shot, stabbed, or blown up.
Because it was Good Friday I encountered a procession of at least a thousand or so Christians moving through the narrow streets reenacting the crucifixion of Jesus Christ (see image below). The dress and look of all three religions is each uniquely bizarre. But in my view the Jews win what appears to be a competition of sorts.
The Western Wall (A/K/A the Wailing Wall.) This is known as the Western Wall because it it the only remaining wall of the original temple. Interesting to note, because there are male and female sections for praying, transgender people have been prevented from praying here. In 1995 a Jewish transgender woman was denied access. Therefore, one might surmise that transgenders don’t belong in any of these religions.The Jews take Passover very seriously. Not only bread, but beer too is forbidden to be consumed. Consequently, I frequented many of the Arab establishments.A common site, burnt piles of bread before Passover. Over the top! I suppose the trash isn’t an option because a weaker jew might be tempted to dumpster dive and pick out the discarded bread.I’m not sure if this “Wailer” was surprised by my camera or maybe something bigger is going on here. I think a possibility is that he realized just how frightening religion can be.The mosque known as Dome of the Rock.Looking east you see Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque, the Redeemer Church, Hurva Synagogue and the Basilica of the Agony. All major religions are represented. Also, note (as I learned during my stay in the West Bank,) that roof-top black water tanks indicate the residence of a Palestinian. Here you can see just a few.Military and police exercising crowd control during the Christian procession. Just like traffic lights control automobile flow, the military controls the religious flow here. First Christians then Muslims were allowed to pass. This took place in the Muslim quarter of the Old City, hence not to many Jews. Thank God, haha.The wall of the Old City. The lowest levels of the wall date back to the the period before Christ.Theatrical reenactment of the crucifixion procession. Complete with escorting Romans and music. The players in their portrayal were very enthusiastic.Close up of the star of the show.Wow! I wish I could say that these Jews set themselves apart, but they don’t. All of the orthodox Jews look and dress in this fashion. You’re never too young to begin growing those peyot (pronounced “pe’ahs”). Orthodox Jews grow these because of the Biblical injunction against shaving the ‘corners’ of one’s head. Sounds completely rational to me.These are Christian Ethiopian worshipers bowing toward their temple which was already jam packed with worshipers. I encountered this ritual almost immediately after the crucifixion procession. It seems that at almost any moment in the Old City, a group is worshiping something.This unknown tourist, who resembled Anthony Bourdain made blowing the shofar (a ram’s horn) look easy. He was surprisingly quite good.Just one more of this spectacle. I couldn’t resist.
