I chartered a catamaran in September in order to explore some of the Ionian Islands. Since I wasn’t entirely confident in my level of sailing expertise, I also enjoyed the company of a Greek captain and his lovely Turkish wife. She was acting as our hostess. She did some light cooking too. They, and the few friends who were joining me for this charter, made for a pretty magical time together. It was the perfect vessel for sailing from island to island and otherwise enjoying this scenically beautiful area. The Ionian Islands are just off the western coast of the Greek mainland. Daytime temperatures were in the mid 80s (or 30 degrees celsius). Nightime temperatures range from 72-78 degrees. The sea is a refreshing 80 degrees. We were in the water several time a day. The places we chose to visit are largely frequented by Greek tourists, rather than drawing a more international crowd. Consequently, these places are much less touristic and this results in a more intimate experience at every point.
When the time on the catamaran is done we all part company. I will be headed to spend some time in the islands to the south of the Greek mainland known as the Cyclades. Until then, keep exploring.
This was a great choice to visit. It’s on the Dalmatian Coast in the Adriatic Sea. The city was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1979 in recognition of its outstanding medieval architecture and fortified old town. The city dates back to the 7th century. In 1991 it was besieged by the Yugoslav People’s Army for 7 months and suffered significant damage from bombings and shellings (See image below).
This is one stunningly beautiful place in the Balkans. It’s bordered by Serbia and Bosnia, and Kosovo to the east. Kotor was founded in the 5th century. The old city was built in 12th to m14th centuries. The protected walls lead up the the fortress of Saint Ivan. Kotor is on the World Heritage list.
Perast
Perast is a tiny village about a 30 minute ride from Kotor. It’s right on the water and a great place to grab lunch. There is some fishing here, but not a lot more to do.
Monemvasia is a beautiful medieval walled city. Its ancient documented history dates back the 8th century. However, it had some settlements above it that date to a much earlier time. These are evidenced by the ruins atop the cliffs above the walled city. Monemvasia is home to only 1,300 people. Its absolutely charming and while it is almost an island, it is not, as it is connected to the mainland by a narrow 200 meter causeway.
Olympia
Olympia is the birthplace of the Olympics. There are several acres of excavated artifacts and ruins in the park to be explored. It is an active dig from an archaeological perspective.
Ionian Islands
The Ionian islands are much more lush when compared to the Cyclades. They are considerably more mountainous. The people here are as friendly and welcoming as everywhere else in Greece. It’s a great place for a 2 week sailing charter. It has beautiful beaches, fabulous waters, delicious food, awesome wine, and great sunsets. It has just about everything one requires for a magical time.
And that’s it from here. Not sure where I am headed next but I hope to file an entry from there, possibly Montenegro or Croatia. Thanks for viewing and checking in.
Paros is located in the Cyclades in the Aegean Sea. It’s a bit larger than Milos or Sifnos. It is home to some 14,000 residents. It’s about 150 km south of Athens and mainland Greece. The two main towns are Parika and Naoussa. They are both full of traditional taverns, great restaurants, sophisticated bars, and lots of shopping. They both enjoy a vibrant night-life. Cars are critical to mobility and rentals are prevalent.
Sifnos is known mostly for its gastronomy. I decided to visit my old friend Marko who lives here. He was gracious enough to allow me to stay in his villa here. It’s nice to have some wealthy friends who live in nice places. I arrived here via ferry from Milos. The little harbor is known as Kamares. Although the island is home to only 2,250 residents, it boasts more than 300 churches. That’s like one church for every 7.5 people. Who needs that many churches? Highly recommend a visit if you are ever in the area. Not just amazing food here, but great beaches and nightlife.
Soon I am off to Paros and Antiparos. I hope to make another entry then. Thanks for taking some time to look at these. Hope you enjoyed.
This island is part of the island group know as the Cyclades. The Cyclades are dry islands with only small vegetation. Milos is about a 4+ hour ferry from Athens. I choose to ferry, rather than fly. The ferries are usually very reliable for inter-island transportation and way more chill than planes. Weather can affect how punctual they run. However, during the month or so that I will be here traveling around the Greek Isles (September-October) it is reliably quiet. The days are sunny and the temperatures are great (70-86 F, or 21-30 C). Milos is known for its beaches. It has quiet little villages, both seaside and in its more mountainous areas. It is home to only 5,000+ people.
Soon I will head to Sifnos. Hope to file a log entry then. For now Kalo’ apo’gevma.
The North Shore of Maui is vastly different from the major tourist destinations of Wailea or Kaanapali. There are no major hotels, only a few very small ones. There are several great restaurants in the area. What the North Shore is best known for are giant waves. The largest waves in the world are often recorded as happening here, and Peahi (better known as Jaws) is it. The largest of these monsters arise only in the winter months. The genesis of these waves is the severe Pacific winter storms in the northern hemisphere. These storms which may be a few thousand miles away create giant swells. This area of Maui is also a nice part to spend time on if you are looking for a more local experience. There are some nice little towns on this side of the island, Kula, Makawao, and Pukalani to name a few. There is a lot of agriculture upcountry too. I also visited Haleakala National Park during sunrise at Maui’s highest point atop of the extinct volcano.
View toward the Big Island. The two peaks seen are the two volcanos Mauna Kea and Kilauea. Kilauea is currently active with lava flows.View from the top of Haleakala looking down at a small portion of the North Shore. Dotting the area between my vantage point and the coast are the towns of Kula, Makawao, and Pukalani.Best upcountry restaurant, The Hali’imaile General Store. If you are spending time on this part of the island it’s pretty convenient to get to. If you are in one of the resorts on the West Coast, make sure you have a “DD” because it will take over an hour in the car and these guys make great cocktails.
So that’s going to be it from Maui this time. Until I write and publish again, stay safe and enjoy some time away somewhere.
I decided after several weeks on Maui that I needed to decompress a bit. A beautiful, logical, and logistically easy option was Lana’i. Although this place is cost prohibitive to many, my sponsor was very generous with me, so off I went, bound for the Four Seasons Hotel at Manele Bay. I spent the night before at the Lahaina Hotel, which was located only 3 blocks from the ferry to Lana’i. The next morning I had an early breakfast and then walked to the ferry. The ferry is usually a very pleasant 45 minute cruise, and this time it didn’t disappoint. Because it is winter I was able to spot whales along the way to Lana’i. Hard to say how many because how do you know if it’s the same whale breaching, or another one? I was greeted at the Lana’i harbor by a representative from the hotel and she transported me to reception (Only a 5 minute drive).
The Island is home to only about 3,000 people. 98 percent of the entire island was acquired from Castle & Cooke in 2012 by Larry Ellison, the then CEO of Oracle Corporation (not to mention the fifth wealthiest human on the planet). Ellison’s vision is to create a sustainable and carbon neutral island. He is well on the way, with much of the energy being from solar and wind. As part of this effort to sustainability, Ellison has created two 20,000 square-foot computer monitored hydroponic farms/greenhouses, with plans for four more.
While the tempo here is much dialed down from Maui, there are enough things to do so as to preclude any moments of boredom. Beach stuff, golf, hiking, snorkeling, biking, and tide pooling, just to name a few. There also is the little town of Lana’i City where most of the residents live. This town is located about 20-25 minutes by car up the hill to the middle of the island at an elevation of 1,650 feet. It has some shopping, but is otherwise pretty quiet. Other than the Four Seasons Resort at Manele Bay and the Sensei Resort up near Lana’i City (also managed by Four Seasons), no other hotels exist on Lana’i. These are both relatively small properties in terms of guest accommodations. Between the two properties there are less than 300 rooms and suites.
Lana’i in the distance. I captured this image from Upcountry Maui the day before departing for Lana’i.Manele Bay as seen from the hotel. The walk down to the beach takes about 12 minutes. The Four Seasons in the distance, as seen from Manele Bay.Morning view overlooking the pool and ocean.View to Manele Bay from one of the spas. The tiki torches at frame center are all around the property. Several are lit each evening at sunset in a traditional Hawaiian lighting, while the vast majority are set on auto-lite. The main lobby at the Four Seasons.The walkway to my accommodations. With all of the dense foliage it’s difficult to actually see much in the way of buildings.Koi ponds along the walk to my room.Closer look at these koi that resemble small submarines. More water elements, streams, and waterfalls abound.My humble abode while I am here.Hike to Sweetheart Rock.Sunset over Sweetheart Rock. Compliments of my friend and photography mentor, EdB (A/K/A Edward Baldwin).A view to the island of Molokai from the far side of Lana’i. Molokai is not known for being tourist friendly, and I get that.Typical shop up in Lana’i City.Larry Ellison taking a lunch meeting. He looks great for a guy in his 70s’. Notice the America’s Cup hat.The very zen feeling at Sensei is only enhanced by views as these.Large sculpture at Sensei.
I’m hanging here as long as my expense account last. At that point I will ferry back to Maui. Be well until then.
It’s been a while, but I am back out there. Started back with a pretty easy trip to Hawaii. Thought it would be a good place to spend time until this Covid thing finally blows over. I purchased a one-way ticket so I had a lot of flexibility. Because of all the unknowns posed by Covid, I decided to book only my first hotel. That way if the trip was scuttled I wouldn’t lose too much in the way of reservation deposits. There was availability all over the islands I chose to visit. I witnessed lots and rainbows, but never any rain. The temperatures at the beach was about 80 degrees fahrenheit. From the little beach town of Paia on the north shore, I drive my Mini Cooper rental to Hana. Although the trip is only 39 miles, it takes between 2.5 and 3 hours (with no stopping for views or problems). Due to the many one lane bridges, cars must stop many times and yield to oncoming traffic. It’s also I good idea to check for road closures before you depart. If the road to Hana closes you must turn around, no other options. One other important recommendation I would make is to stay in Hana at least 2 or 3 nights. The drive is so beautiful one feels compelled to stop many times along the way. A leisurely drive with just 4 or 5 stops can easily take upwards of 5 hours one way. Close to and in Hana are white, black, and red sand beaches. There are some great hikes and plenty of scenic opportunities.
Map of Maui. Hana is located at the extreme eastern tip.One of the many waterfalls which can be seen along the way to Hana.One of the 50 or so old one-lane bridges along the way.I encountered a small group of old car collectors and their prized vehicles along the way.Another shot of this very awesome creation.My Mini which was a great choice for this experience.Along the way to Hana, a view to yet another beach.One of the many places to take a dip along the way. Fed by fresh rainfall from a much higher part of the island this pool was very refreshing.
Once in Hana I checked into my hotel in Hana. The population of Hana is only 1,526 people as of 2020 census. There is only one hotel. Formerly known as Travasa, and before that the Hana Hotel, it is now owned and operated by Hyatt. As you can imagine the hotel is quite small. However, it has a good restaurant and spa. There are other nice amenities to enjoy as well. So, not only is it “the” place to stay, it’s the only place to stay.
Welcome home to the Oceanfront bungalow. Super comfortable, and as a result of its close proximity to the ocean, you rarely if ever need air-conditioning. Image of my oceanfront bungalow.Front view with the crashing ocean behind.Odd juxtaposition with the horses and ocean. This is a view front my bungalow deck.View of the oceanfront bungalows from my hike to the Red Sand Beach. With only screen doors in the bungalow, you hear the waves crashing all day and all night.
Take a short but dangerous hike from the hotel property to the Red Sand Beach. The bay is also known as Kaihalulu Bay. This is only one of a few red sand beaches in the world. The bay is shielded by the otherwise very rough ocean by a reef.
The warning sign to be taken seriously. The most common and sometimes fatal injury occurs from slipping on the unstable cinder-like soil or abundant pine needles. The drop can be as little as 15 feet or as much as 80-90 feet, depending upon what you hit on the way down, and if you are able to grab a hold of something in order to stop. Either way it spoils part, or all of your day.If this young lady slips and falls, the accident may not be fatal, but it would surely ruin the balance of her vacation. She bears a striking resemblence to my housekeeper from Sicily several years ago, but that’s not her.Another warning, not to be taken lightly.Red Sand Beach and the protective reef.On the beach perspective.View from above.Red Sand Beach.Hamoa Beach is only a few minute drive from Hana.Another image of Hamoa Beach.Waves at Hamoa Beach. These are way more fun than they look.One more image of Hamoa.The Black Sand Beach. There is a portion where the sand is very black and very fine.Image near the black sand beach.Just another simply beautiful beach.
As I travel around this island and possibly others, I will keep on posting. So stay tuned.