The North Shore of Maui is vastly different from the major tourist destinations of Wailea or Kaanapali. There are no major hotels, only a few very small ones. There are several great restaurants in the area. What the North Shore is best known for are giant waves. The largest waves in the world are often recorded as happening here, and Peahi (better known as Jaws) is it. The largest of these monsters arise only in the winter months. The genesis of these waves is the severe Pacific winter storms in the northern hemisphere. These storms which may be a few thousand miles away create giant swells. This area of Maui is also a nice part to spend time on if you are looking for a more local experience. There are some nice little towns on this side of the island, Kula, Makawao, and Pukalani to name a few. There is a lot of agriculture upcountry too. I also visited Haleakala National Park during sunrise at Maui’s highest point atop of the extinct volcano.
The Lumeria Retreat was a very low-key and chill place to stay. Plus many yoga offerings. The drive to the beaches was only about 15 minutes. There were limited amenities here, but the gardens, birds, and trees were beautiful. I think this woman is practicing as I walked by. Or maybe something else is going on. It was hard to tell.One of many rainbows over the little coastal town of Paia on the North Shore.Baldwin beach is just a few minutes from Paia. The West Maui mountains are in the background. Because of the natural breakwater in a couple of spots, even very little kids can safely enjoy the water without too much risk of being carried away. Of course, drowning is always a possibility.As a result of the prevalent winds here, kite surfing is happening almost every day. This guy is just going out. Their kites dancing in the air can be seen as far out as 1-2 miles.Usually, a few sea turtles scatter the beach where the waters are a bit more tranquil.Paia fish market on the corner is a great, yet reasonable option for lunch or dinner. Get the blackened ahi.People at Jaws viewing the impressive surf. It was hard to tell how big these swells were because there were no surfers the morning I was here.Another image of these giant crashing waves. Quite sizable.Impressive doesn’t even begin to describe this surfer. I was not the one who captured this image last year at Jaws. Judging from relative proportions, this wave appears to be a least 45-50 feet high.Another rainbow at Baldwin’s “Baby Beach.”Mama’s Fish House at night. Great fare but a bit touristy. Also, a nice lunch option since its location is a primo beachfront. The entire place is open-air, so it feels great. Steven Tyler of Aerosmith fame was here the night I dined. He still looks pretty good at 74.The crater atop of Haleakala at sunrise. The elevation here is 10,023 feet and the temperature was only 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Bring a blanket if you don’t have any winter clothing. It was difficult waking up at 4AM but, worth it once on top here. The drive from the North Shore takes about 90 minutes.View toward the Big Island. The two peaks seen are the two volcanos Mauna Kea and Kilauea. Kilauea is currently active with lava flows.View from the top of Haleakala looking down at a small portion of the North Shore. Dotting the area between my vantage point and the coast are the towns of Kula, Makawao, and Pukalani.Best upcountry restaurant, The Hali’imaile General Store. If you are spending time on this part of the island it’s pretty convenient to get to. If you are in one of the resorts on the West Coast, make sure you have a “DD” because it will take over an hour in the car and these guys make great cocktails.
So that’s going to be it from Maui this time. Until I write and publish again, stay safe and enjoy some time away somewhere.
I decided after several weeks on Maui that I needed to decompress a bit. A beautiful, logical, and logistically easy option was Lana’i. Although this place is cost prohibitive to many, my sponsor was very generous with me, so off I went, bound for the Four Seasons Hotel at Manele Bay. I spent the night before at the Lahaina Hotel, which was located only 3 blocks from the ferry to Lana’i. The next morning I had an early breakfast and then walked to the ferry. The ferry is usually a very pleasant 45 minute cruise, and this time it didn’t disappoint. Because it is winter I was able to spot whales along the way to Lana’i. Hard to say how many because how do you know if it’s the same whale breaching, or another one? I was greeted at the Lana’i harbor by a representative from the hotel and she transported me to reception (Only a 5 minute drive).
The Island is home to only about 3,000 people. 98 percent of the entire island was acquired from Castle & Cooke in 2012 by Larry Ellison, the then CEO of Oracle Corporation (not to mention the fifth wealthiest human on the planet). Ellison’s vision is to create a sustainable and carbon neutral island. He is well on the way, with much of the energy being from solar and wind. As part of this effort to sustainability, Ellison has created two 20,000 square-foot computer monitored hydroponic farms/greenhouses, with plans for four more.
While the tempo here is much dialed down from Maui, there are enough things to do so as to preclude any moments of boredom. Beach stuff, golf, hiking, snorkeling, biking, and tide pooling, just to name a few. There also is the little town of Lana’i City where most of the residents live. This town is located about 20-25 minutes by car up the hill to the middle of the island at an elevation of 1,650 feet. It has some shopping, but is otherwise pretty quiet. Other than the Four Seasons Resort at Manele Bay and the Sensei Resort up near Lana’i City (also managed by Four Seasons), no other hotels exist on Lana’i. These are both relatively small properties in terms of guest accommodations. Between the two properties there are less than 300 rooms and suites.
Lana’i in the distance. I captured this image from Upcountry Maui the day before departing for Lana’i.Manele Bay as seen from the hotel. The walk down to the beach takes about 12 minutes. The Four Seasons in the distance, as seen from Manele Bay.Morning view overlooking the pool and ocean.View to Manele Bay from one of the spas. The tiki torches at frame center are all around the property. Several are lit each evening at sunset in a traditional Hawaiian lighting, while the vast majority are set on auto-lite. The main lobby at the Four Seasons.The walkway to my accommodations. With all of the dense foliage it’s difficult to actually see much in the way of buildings.Koi ponds along the walk to my room.Closer look at these koi that resemble small submarines. More water elements, streams, and waterfalls abound.My humble abode while I am here.Hike to Sweetheart Rock.Sunset over Sweetheart Rock. Compliments of my friend and photography mentor, EdB (A/K/A Edward Baldwin).A view to the island of Molokai from the far side of Lana’i. Molokai is not known for being tourist friendly, and I get that.Typical shop up in Lana’i City.Larry Ellison taking a lunch meeting. He looks great for a guy in his 70s’. Notice the America’s Cup hat.The very zen feeling at Sensei is only enhanced by views as these.Large sculpture at Sensei.
I’m hanging here as long as my expense account last. At that point I will ferry back to Maui. Be well until then.
It’s been a while, but I am back out there. Started back with a pretty easy trip to Hawaii. Thought it would be a good place to spend time until this Covid thing finally blows over. I purchased a one-way ticket so I had a lot of flexibility. Because of all the unknowns posed by Covid, I decided to book only my first hotel. That way if the trip was scuttled I wouldn’t lose too much in the way of reservation deposits. There was availability all over the islands I chose to visit. I witnessed lots and rainbows, but never any rain. The temperatures at the beach was about 80 degrees fahrenheit. From the little beach town of Paia on the north shore, I drive my Mini Cooper rental to Hana. Although the trip is only 39 miles, it takes between 2.5 and 3 hours (with no stopping for views or problems). Due to the many one lane bridges, cars must stop many times and yield to oncoming traffic. It’s also I good idea to check for road closures before you depart. If the road to Hana closes you must turn around, no other options. One other important recommendation I would make is to stay in Hana at least 2 or 3 nights. The drive is so beautiful one feels compelled to stop many times along the way. A leisurely drive with just 4 or 5 stops can easily take upwards of 5 hours one way. Close to and in Hana are white, black, and red sand beaches. There are some great hikes and plenty of scenic opportunities.
Map of Maui. Hana is located at the extreme eastern tip.One of the many waterfalls which can be seen along the way to Hana.One of the 50 or so old one-lane bridges along the way.I encountered a small group of old car collectors and their prized vehicles along the way.Another shot of this very awesome creation.My Mini which was a great choice for this experience.Along the way to Hana, a view to yet another beach.One of the many places to take a dip along the way. Fed by fresh rainfall from a much higher part of the island this pool was very refreshing.
Once in Hana I checked into my hotel in Hana. The population of Hana is only 1,526 people as of 2020 census. There is only one hotel. Formerly known as Travasa, and before that the Hana Hotel, it is now owned and operated by Hyatt. As you can imagine the hotel is quite small. However, it has a good restaurant and spa. There are other nice amenities to enjoy as well. So, not only is it “the” place to stay, it’s the only place to stay.
Welcome home to the Oceanfront bungalow. Super comfortable, and as a result of its close proximity to the ocean, you rarely if ever need air-conditioning. Image of my oceanfront bungalow.Front view with the crashing ocean behind.Odd juxtaposition with the horses and ocean. This is a view front my bungalow deck.View of the oceanfront bungalows from my hike to the Red Sand Beach. With only screen doors in the bungalow, you hear the waves crashing all day and all night.
Take a short but dangerous hike from the hotel property to the Red Sand Beach. The bay is also known as Kaihalulu Bay. This is only one of a few red sand beaches in the world. The bay is shielded by the otherwise very rough ocean by a reef.
The warning sign to be taken seriously. The most common and sometimes fatal injury occurs from slipping on the unstable cinder-like soil or abundant pine needles. The drop can be as little as 15 feet or as much as 80-90 feet, depending upon what you hit on the way down, and if you are able to grab a hold of something in order to stop. Either way it spoils part, or all of your day.If this young lady slips and falls, the accident may not be fatal, but it would surely ruin the balance of her vacation. She bears a striking resemblence to my housekeeper from Sicily several years ago, but that’s not her.Another warning, not to be taken lightly.Red Sand Beach and the protective reef.On the beach perspective.View from above.Red Sand Beach.Hamoa Beach is only a few minute drive from Hana.Another image of Hamoa Beach.Waves at Hamoa Beach. These are way more fun than they look.One more image of Hamoa.The Black Sand Beach. There is a portion where the sand is very black and very fine.Image near the black sand beach.Just another simply beautiful beach.
As I travel around this island and possibly others, I will keep on posting. So stay tuned.
