Month: February 2019

Lemaire and Nuemayer Channels, Antarctica

Lemaire Channel has steep cliffs that hem in this iceberg-filled passage, which is only 7 miles long (11km) and only 1,600 meters wide. The surrounding formations also serve to protect the water, so much so, that it appears to be as still and tranquil as a lake.

The sunset was like fire and ice. The image falls short of just how amazing this actually was.
Surreal lighting at sunset (11:45 PM). Because it is summer here it never gets dark. The sunrise will occur in about 3 or 4 hours time (approximately 3:30 AM).
Nearby formations rising almost vertically from the water.
The pastel colors were amazing.
Crazy spectators taking in the moment. My hippie friend was from Germany. His personality was at least as big as it appears in this image.
Hot tub “selfies.” Why bother with capturing images of the incredible sunset, colors, rock formations, and ice forms when you can take “selfies?”

The following day we are on to the Neumayer Channel. These channels were about a one day sail apart from each other and almost as different as could be. No more clear skies, a lot more wind, as well as an uncountable amount of sailing hazards in the form of rock outcroppings, underwater rock spires, and icebergs. 

Hazards along the way. The Quest’s captain is required to be an “ice-master” before sailing to either the Arctic or the Antarctic. The qualification as an “ice-master” has absolutely nothing to do with the doomed 1913 voyage of the Karluk, which sank in the Arctic Ocean and taking with it more than half its crew.
More treacherous seas and a sizable iceberg looming in the background. That berg is more than enough to severely cripple or sink any ship colliding or grazing it.
Notice the Russian expedition ship in the foreground. Upon closer inspection with my binoculars it confirmed my feeling that this could be a tough way to travel to this part of the world. It’s probably not a stretch to also believe that the captain of the Russian ship is probably somewhat intoxicated for much of the journey.
Almost through the channel at this point. These spires are approximately 300-400 meters (1,000-1,250 feet) rising almost straight up from the water.
This is as far as we were able to go as the ice became too abundant. The Captain smartly decided to rotate our vessel 180 degrees and head back the way we entered the channel.

“Polar Plunge,” somewhere near the Antarctic Circle

Sea days aboard the Seabourn Quest are truly relaxing.  After 15 or so days into this voyage I have grown to relish the days which occur between stops at either ports or landings by zodiac. They are referred to “sea days” because no one leaves the ship.  On these days there is no schedule, and yet a plethora of things exist to do.  A good many memorable experiences happen on sea days.  Some of these activities involve some day drinking (as in alcohol), but none more so than Seabourn’s version of the “polar plunge.”  Also a memorable event.

Let me set the stage for this event which is depicted in the images below.  First, the pool is drained of the normally warm (86 degree F) water.   Second, frigid water is pumped from the sea to fill the pool.  In this case it is Antarctic sea water.  The water temperature of the freshly filled pool is now 35 degrees F, or 2 degrees C.  The skies were cloudy with a light flurry of snow.  The air temperature was 30 degrees F, and the drinks were flowing, especially the vodka shots.  

This is the scene prior to the big event. Note the two jacuzzi tubs on the far corners of the pool. These play a critical part of the polar plunge and after party. I believe that there would be far fewer participants if these were not available upon one’s exit from the frigid water in the pool.
One of the bar set ups on the pool deck. This one featuring many varieties of ice cold vodkas. The bottles are sitting in ice structures specially formed for this purpose. These Seabourn guys sure know how to throw a party.
Like lemmings to the frigid water so are some of my fellow shipmates. Many spectators are viewing and photographing from the Sky Bar on the above deck.
Here I am making my first of three plunges. Jumping into the deep-end and fully submerged I didn’t feel the cold for 3 or 4 seconds. Then it gripped me like a vice with teeth. My main motivation for participating in the plunge was that I always wanted to know what Kate and Leo felt like on that ill-fated night in April 1912.
Shots delivered to the jacuzzi, just in case you weren’t buzzed from the ice cold plunge. I overheard one of the gentlemen proclaim that he thought that due to the frigid water and his resulting shrinkage, that he wouldn’t be able to find his “junk” for an hour or so. Then I looked around for George Constanza.

Shots all around. My British friend apparently wishing cheers to the photographer capturing this image.
It seems the shots are now having an effect. She’s fully in the moment, as was everyone else participating in this crazy activity.

Paradise Bay, Antarctic Peninsula

Paradise Bay, also know as Paradise Harbor is a wide embayment behind the Lemaire and Bryde Islands in Antarctica. We were here on a particularly awesome weather day. The skies were almost cloudless, the air temperature a very comfortable 30 degrees F (-1 degree C), and the winds calm. This was just a great day for kayaking, whale watching and a bit of exploring. After taking in some impressive whale watching, we made our way to an island playing host to the chinstrap penguins, as well as elephant seals and other animal life.

Our group photo was taken by my friend Brian Doyle. Truly an amazing summer day Kayaking in the Antarctic peninsula. So much so that I didn’t need to make use of the neoprene hand sleeves on the kayak’s paddle. Because the wind was virtually nonexistent the water was like glass and mirrored almost all the surrounding land and ice forms.
Two hump-back whales are performing a synchronized swimming move just ahead of the kayak. So incredibly graceful are these creatures that the only thing one is able to hear as they pass by is their exhaling, which is quite loud. I am alluding to the whales of course, not the kayakers.
Two of my follow “Yakers” photographing the whales in the background. These animals have powerful sonar. If they get close enough to capsize a kayak, it is because they plan to, thus it’s never an accident. However, they are quite docile unless provoked.

This is a demonstration of how the whales wave “bye-bye.” It is the payoff, as well as a view of how these creatures are tracked and charted. The underside of their tail is analogous to a human fingerprint. These whales travel thousands of miles throughout the oceans and are tracked and recorded in this way.

After about an hour or so kayaking we arrived here. This tiny island plays home to 3,000 breeding pairs of Chinstrap penguins, as well as some elephant seals. The sharp craggy rock cliffs were quite stunning. Note all the chinstraps at the top left of the image.
Why the long face? This chinstrap penguin seems a bit down at the moment I captured the image.
Although I would love to claim this as my own, however my new pal Brian Doyle captured this image. Not sure how loud this was, but based upon my experiences that day I can’t believe he was able to get this close. Their diet consists mostly of fish, squid, small sharks and octopus. They have also been known to enjoy a small penguin or two from time to time.
This elephant seal is dwarfed by the whale rib in the foreground.
Pictured above is another chinstrap penguin. This penguin seamed much happier than his cousin above on the snow. Note the algae on the rocks. In addition to its very important function and role in the eco-system here, it lends a beautiful contrast of color to this image.
This water boat from the whaling days around the turn of the century (1900) is slowly decaying in the summer sun. Because of the severe cold here, the process of decomposition takes a bit longer. Again I am reminded of an industry that nearly made extinct the whale population in this part of the world.