This city plays host to three of the most popular religions on the planet. This is no more apparent than in the Old City of Jerusalem. Before I write any more of this installment, it is imperative that the readers know that this author is agnostic, bordering on atheistic. It will help to explain my perspective and the somewhat irreverent tone of what you are about to see and read. One of the days I spent in Jerusalem happened to be Good Friday, which this year happened to coincide with the Jewish Passover holiday. As is typical the Muslims were also observing and obeying their rigorous religious rituals that day. It was a “Perfect Storm” of religion.
As a result of having thousands and thousands of people here, the narrow streets were incredible congested and not passable without an abundance of patience. The military and police presence was strong and omnipresent. At times the crowds were restrained by military barricades. It caused me to feel both safe and threatened simultaneously. I was more concerned with being trampled than shot, stabbed, or blown up.
Because it was Good Friday I encountered a procession of at least a thousand or so Christians moving through the narrow streets reenacting the crucifixion of Jesus Christ (see image below). The dress and look of all three religions is each uniquely bizarre. But in my view the Jews win what appears to be a competition of sorts.
The Western Wall (A/K/A the Wailing Wall.) This is known as the Western Wall because it it the only remaining wall of the original temple. Interesting to note, because there are male and female sections for praying, transgender people have been prevented from praying here. In 1995 a Jewish transgender woman was denied access. Therefore, one might surmise that transgenders don’t belong in any of these religions.The Jews take Passover very seriously. Not only bread, but beer too is forbidden to be consumed. Consequently, I frequented many of the Arab establishments.A common site, burnt piles of bread before Passover. Over the top! I suppose the trash isn’t an option because a weaker jew might be tempted to dumpster dive and pick out the discarded bread.I’m not sure if this “Wailer” was surprised by my camera or maybe something bigger is going on here. I think a possibility is that he realized just how frightening religion can be.The mosque known as Dome of the Rock.Looking east you see Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque, the Redeemer Church, Hurva Synagogue and the Basilica of the Agony. All major religions are represented. Also, note (as I learned during my stay in the West Bank,) that roof-top black water tanks indicate the residence of a Palestinian. Here you can see just a few.Military and police exercising crowd control during the Christian procession. Just like traffic lights control automobile flow, the military controls the religious flow here. First Christians then Muslims were allowed to pass. This took place in the Muslim quarter of the Old City, hence not to many Jews. Thank God, haha.The wall of the Old City. The lowest levels of the wall date back to the the period before Christ.Theatrical reenactment of the crucifixion procession. Complete with escorting Romans and music. The players in their portrayal were very enthusiastic.Close up of the star of the show.Wow! I wish I could say that these Jews set themselves apart, but they don’t. All of the orthodox Jews look and dress in this fashion. You’re never too young to begin growing those peyot (pronounced “pe’ahs”). Orthodox Jews grow these because of the Biblical injunction against shaving the ‘corners’ of one’s head. Sounds completely rational to me.These are Christian Ethiopian worshipers bowing toward their temple which was already jam packed with worshipers. I encountered this ritual almost immediately after the crucifixion procession. It seems that at almost any moment in the Old City, a group is worshiping something.This unknown tourist, who resembled Anthony Bourdain made blowing the shofar (a ram’s horn) look easy. He was surprisingly quite good.Just one more of this spectacle. I couldn’t resist.
This city is holy to both Christians and Muslims. It is the birthplace of Jesus Christ. Jesus is the Son of God to the Christians, and a divinely inspired prophet to Muslims. The city has a long pre-Roman history dating back to the 14th century BC.
Market on the way to the Nativity Church.Omar Mosque adjacent to Manger Square.The Manger just outside the Nativity Church. Everything is life-size.
One of the earlier “Pope Mobiles.” Here an unruly tourist violates the rule of boarding the vehicle itself. He was quickly escorted away.Home to somebody.View of the Bethlehem neighborhood. In the distance is an Israeli settlement located in the West Bank. Even from a distance one can see these are well built.Young Palestinians aggregating to protest conditions in the West Bank.
As with any coin, “The Wall” has two sides. I traveled to, and spent time on both sides. The Wall is a separation barrier in the West Bank along the Green Line. On one side are (the Israelis), who consider it a security barrier against terrorism, while on the other side are (the Palestinians) who consider it an “Apartheid” wall. At its completion it will be 440 miles in length, most of which is and will be constructed on Palestinian land. The Wall’s construction began in 2000 during the Second Intifada. Since it’s construction began the incidence of suicide bombings initiating from the West Bank has decreased significantly. But while the barrier was presented as a temporary security measure in a time (2000-2006) of heightened tensions, it has since been rapidly associated with a future political border between Israel and Palestine. I take no political position with regard to the Wall.
Street view of the Banksy Hotel (A/K/A The Walled Off Hotel). Notice the Wall on the extreme right of the frame. The streets are mostly rubble left over from some shelling in the not too distant past. The limited but good restaurant features a “Walled Off salad.” Needless to say, these people still have a sense of humor.View from my hotel room at The Banksy Walled Off Hotel. These watch/gun towers are manned 24/7 by the Israeli army.Another balcony view. Beyond the Wall lies Israel.These tourists are viewing The Wall from the Hotel’s patio. As you can see the Wall is at least 15 meters (or 45 feet) in height. It is topped off with high gauge razor wire. The Palestinian side is covered with graffiti from writers from all over the world, most writing in sympathy for the Palestinian cause and bringing messages for general peace.Artwork in the Hotel’s lobby. Depicted is an artist’s conception of an Israeli tank bulldozing a Palestinian home. There is within this small hotel an awesome museum which chronicles the entire period of the West Bank from the 1940s to current day.Quirky artwork. Notice the surveillance cameras mounted as though they were hunted trophy animals. Nice assortment of slingshots too.He greets you at the door to the Hotel. Reminds me a bit of the Grand Budapest Hotel.Behind this false bookcase you find the staircase to the rooms. This hotel seems to be a mix of crazy, reality, fantasy, and a dash of Addams Family thrown in.Another lobby sculpture. The tear gas being sprayed is dove feathers. Quite the juxtaposition.Some of the Wall’s graffiti. The quote reads “We can’t live, so we wait for death.” Very sad and very true.View from an apartment rooftop in Aida, one of the first Palestinian refugee camps in the West Bank. Here we see one completely torched watch tower. The green space on the other side will belongs to Israel, after the one muslim family living here vacates the Israelis will take over.Remains almost everyone’s hero here. No not Ringo Starr, Yasser Arafat.A walk along the Wall.View of Aida, Palestine. The black water tanks designate that the occupants of the homes are Palestinian. This rule also applies when in Israel.This little girl, at least for the moment has something to skip about.Another street image.This walking tour I took led by a local man was riveting.
My next stop is the Town of Bethlehem, birthplace of you know who. It is only a 45 minute walk from the point of Wall where I now stand. So look for it pretty soon. Of course I’ll send you a heads up email if you are registered on my site. Thanks for clicking in.
