This city plays host to three of the most popular religions on the planet. This is no more apparent than in the Old City of Jerusalem. Before I write any more of this installment, it is imperative that the readers know that this author is agnostic, bordering on atheistic. It will help to explain my perspective and the somewhat irreverent tone of what you are about to see and read. One of the days I spent in Jerusalem happened to be Good Friday, which this year happened to coincide with the Jewish Passover holiday. As is typical the Muslims were also observing and obeying their rigorous religious rituals that day. It was a “Perfect Storm” of religion.
As a result of having thousands and thousands of people here, the narrow streets were incredible congested and not passable without an abundance of patience. The military and police presence was strong and omnipresent. At times the crowds were restrained by military barricades. It caused me to feel both safe and threatened simultaneously. I was more concerned with being trampled than shot, stabbed, or blown up.
Because it was Good Friday I encountered a procession of at least a thousand or so Christians moving through the narrow streets reenacting the crucifixion of Jesus Christ (see image below). The dress and look of all three religions is each uniquely bizarre. But in my view the Jews win what appears to be a competition of sorts.
The Western Wall (A/K/A the Wailing Wall.) This is known as the Western Wall because it it the only remaining wall of the original temple. Interesting to note, because there are male and female sections for praying, transgender people have been prevented from praying here. In 1995 a Jewish transgender woman was denied access. Therefore, one might surmise that transgenders don’t belong in any of these religions.The Jews take Passover very seriously. Not only bread, but beer too is forbidden to be consumed. Consequently, I frequented many of the Arab establishments.A common site, burnt piles of bread before Passover. Over the top! I suppose the trash isn’t an option because a weaker jew might be tempted to dumpster dive and pick out the discarded bread.I’m not sure if this “Wailer” was surprised by my camera or maybe something bigger is going on here. I think a possibility is that he realized just how frightening religion can be.The mosque known as Dome of the Rock.Looking east you see Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque, the Redeemer Church, Hurva Synagogue and the Basilica of the Agony. All major religions are represented. Also, note (as I learned during my stay in the West Bank,) that roof-top black water tanks indicate the residence of a Palestinian. Here you can see just a few.Military and police exercising crowd control during the Christian procession. Just like traffic lights control automobile flow, the military controls the religious flow here. First Christians then Muslims were allowed to pass. This took place in the Muslim quarter of the Old City, hence not to many Jews. Thank God, haha.The wall of the Old City. The lowest levels of the wall date back to the the period before Christ.Theatrical reenactment of the crucifixion procession. Complete with escorting Romans and music. The players in their portrayal were very enthusiastic.Close up of the star of the show.Wow! I wish I could say that these Jews set themselves apart, but they don’t. All of the orthodox Jews look and dress in this fashion. You’re never too young to begin growing those peyot (pronounced “pe’ahs”). Orthodox Jews grow these because of the Biblical injunction against shaving the ‘corners’ of one’s head. Sounds completely rational to me.These are Christian Ethiopian worshipers bowing toward their temple which was already jam packed with worshipers. I encountered this ritual almost immediately after the crucifixion procession. It seems that at almost any moment in the Old City, a group is worshiping something.This unknown tourist, who resembled Anthony Bourdain made blowing the shofar (a ram’s horn) look easy. He was surprisingly quite good.Just one more of this spectacle. I couldn’t resist.
This city is holy to both Christians and Muslims. It is the birthplace of Jesus Christ. Jesus is the Son of God to the Christians, and a divinely inspired prophet to Muslims. The city has a long pre-Roman history dating back to the 14th century BC.
Market on the way to the Nativity Church.Omar Mosque adjacent to Manger Square.The Manger just outside the Nativity Church. Everything is life-size.
One of the earlier “Pope Mobiles.” Here an unruly tourist violates the rule of boarding the vehicle itself. He was quickly escorted away.Home to somebody.View of the Bethlehem neighborhood. In the distance is an Israeli settlement located in the West Bank. Even from a distance one can see these are well built.Young Palestinians aggregating to protest conditions in the West Bank.
As with any coin, “The Wall” has two sides. I traveled to, and spent time on both sides. The Wall is a separation barrier in the West Bank along the Green Line. On one side are (the Israelis), who consider it a security barrier against terrorism, while on the other side are (the Palestinians) who consider it an “Apartheid” wall. At its completion it will be 440 miles in length, most of which is and will be constructed on Palestinian land. The Wall’s construction began in 2000 during the Second Intifada. Since it’s construction began the incidence of suicide bombings initiating from the West Bank has decreased significantly. But while the barrier was presented as a temporary security measure in a time (2000-2006) of heightened tensions, it has since been rapidly associated with a future political border between Israel and Palestine. I take no political position with regard to the Wall.
Street view of the Banksy Hotel (A/K/A The Walled Off Hotel). Notice the Wall on the extreme right of the frame. The streets are mostly rubble left over from some shelling in the not too distant past. The limited but good restaurant features a “Walled Off salad.” Needless to say, these people still have a sense of humor.View from my hotel room at The Banksy Walled Off Hotel. These watch/gun towers are manned 24/7 by the Israeli army.Another balcony view. Beyond the Wall lies Israel.These tourists are viewing The Wall from the Hotel’s patio. As you can see the Wall is at least 15 meters (or 45 feet) in height. It is topped off with high gauge razor wire. The Palestinian side is covered with graffiti from writers from all over the world, most writing in sympathy for the Palestinian cause and bringing messages for general peace.Artwork in the Hotel’s lobby. Depicted is an artist’s conception of an Israeli tank bulldozing a Palestinian home. There is within this small hotel an awesome museum which chronicles the entire period of the West Bank from the 1940s to current day.Quirky artwork. Notice the surveillance cameras mounted as though they were hunted trophy animals. Nice assortment of slingshots too.He greets you at the door to the Hotel. Reminds me a bit of the Grand Budapest Hotel.Behind this false bookcase you find the staircase to the rooms. This hotel seems to be a mix of crazy, reality, fantasy, and a dash of Addams Family thrown in.Another lobby sculpture. The tear gas being sprayed is dove feathers. Quite the juxtaposition.Some of the Wall’s graffiti. The quote reads “We can’t live, so we wait for death.” Very sad and very true.View from an apartment rooftop in Aida, one of the first Palestinian refugee camps in the West Bank. Here we see one completely torched watch tower. The green space on the other side will belongs to Israel, after the one muslim family living here vacates the Israelis will take over.Remains almost everyone’s hero here. No not Ringo Starr, Yasser Arafat.A walk along the Wall.View of Aida, Palestine. The black water tanks designate that the occupants of the homes are Palestinian. This rule also applies when in Israel.This little girl, at least for the moment has something to skip about.Another street image.This walking tour I took led by a local man was riveting.
My next stop is the Town of Bethlehem, birthplace of you know who. It is only a 45 minute walk from the point of Wall where I now stand. So look for it pretty soon. Of course I’ll send you a heads up email if you are registered on my site. Thanks for clicking in.
Monemvasia is worth the effort to see. The island is quite “Gibraltar-like.” It is one big rock off the east coast of Peloponnese, in Greece and linked to the mainland by a short causeway. It is tiny. Only 300 meters wide and a kilometer long. The walled town is remarkably romantic. It is a living museum of Byzantine, Ottoman, and Venetian history dating back to the 13th century.
Upon my approach. Maarku’s yacht was small enough this time so that we were not required to moor, but instead could dock and walk ashore.The walled little town shot from Maaku’s vessel.Local hotel. The landscaping needed some attention, but the place looked charming.This little village is a walled city dating back some 700 years. The site of a powerful medieval fortress. The towns walls and many Byzantine churches remain from that period.Walled city battlement.Really quaint Restaurants dot the labyrinth of narrow streets here. We chose to eat and drink our way through this town, stopping to enjoy a bite and a beverage at about a half dozen or so places.Seaside view. Again, unless you are traveling by boat, this little gem is a difficult place to access. That said, it is worth the effort and once you are here you’ll agree. Maarku is great at finding these really interesting and off the beaten path places. But he should be as this part of the world is his home.Aerial shot of the island. Easy to see the western facing walled town.
One of the beaches seen upon our departure. Once back on board we yet again enjoyed some more Greek beer as our cook prepared an awesome dinner of local fish. So fortunate to have been able to rendezvous in the Greek Isles with my old friend Maarku. And I am much obliged for his hospitality, not to mention being able to share his ocean vessel all this time.
We are not sure where we are headed next but the weather is still good, so stay tuned.
Santorini is in the shape of a big C, surrounding the caldera which is the active volcano area. Most of the towns and villages are situated on the top of the island. The island is very touristy and it is easy to see why. It is entirely scenic. There are no bad views here. With multicolored cliffs soaring over 1000 feet from the sea-drowned caldera, it rests in the middle of the indigo Aegean sea. It appears like a giant slab of layered cake.
View of some of the islands surrounding Santorini. Here I was able to swim in the ocean where there are thermals created by the geological activity in the caldera.Santorini in the distance. What could be at first mistaken for snow at the top of Santorini is the village of Finikia.Athinios Port and the village of Megalohon at the top. This is where we moored for the day.View of the caldera from atop of Santorini. You can’t miss all the cruise ships in the water below.View of the caldera from Nea Kameni. The hike up this volcanic crater was great.I had lunch and some Greek beers here. The beers were necessary in order to counter my slight dizziness from the height and the sheer drop of the cliffside. The food was great but this place is not for anyone with acrophobia.This is home to a man who as local folklore has it, lost his young lover and retreated from the world to live here on this tiny island near Santorini. He has been here for some 20 years. I’m sure this place is very reasonable. Check out the rug on his back.My departure from this picturesque little Greek Island. One negative to this island is that unless one travels by cruise ship, it is difficult to get here. I was fortunate to have my Greek friend Maarku who resides on his comfortable yacht with me, so getting here was easy, not to mention the party we had along the way.
Please check in for my next island stop with Maarku, the island of Monemvasia.
This area is one of the oldest I have ever been to. Founded before 900 BC. The city was occupied for nearly 2,500 years. The corresponding periods in time are from the Greek Dark Ages until The Late Middle ages. It lay buried in sentiment for nearly 800 years and was discovered in the 1800s by archaeologists John Wood and Otto Benndorf. It remains an active dig site and possibly won’t be fully excavated for decades. It is located on the south-west coast of modern Turkey.
The Library of Celsus.Another perspective of The Library.These images just keep coming at me.Main Street which is several hundred yards long.Built by the Greeks around 300 BC this amphitheater is incredible.Of course a cemeteryLunch at a home in a nearby village. I met a local at the archaeological site who was kind enough to invite me to their home for lunch.View of the village street on my way up to my host’s home for lunch.View from my host’s home.Another perspective without the portion of deferred maintenance.Village area with kiosks and shops. Notice the minaret in the distance.
These places were as romantic as places can be. From Amalfi I took a 45 minute ferry to Capri. The Isle of Capri is one of the most visited places in Campania. It is this place that was celebrated in Homer’s works where Odysseus sails past the island, and narrowly escaped the fate of those who hear the voices of the Sirens. Thus the island has a mythical charm, as well as natural treasures, through the writings and legends of Ancient Greece.
The island is composed of two municipalities: Capri and Anacapri. The latter is built on a high plateau, which affords staggering views of sheer cliffs from dizzying vantage points as you’ll see in the images below.
View from a point above Amalfi.View from my hotel balcony. I spent three days here mostly eating and drinking. During that time I must have walked up and down about 10,000 steps. Very little here is on the same level. One round trip to the beaches below is approximately 1,500 steps. This is not a place for the mobility challenged.Another perspective of Amalfi at dusk.The same stunning view taken during the day.Capri’s harbor upon my ferry’s arrival.The road to AnaCapri is in many spots only one lane. If one suffers from acrophobia it’s advisable to keep your eyes closed. Otherwise the trip would be impossible. The hotel I booked into was in AnaCapri.Another image of this wild road.This continued to amaze me as well as freak me out when traveling on it. Any slight tremor and this structure will crumble like a box of Oreo cookies when dropped. The resulting plunge to the sea is approximately 1,400 feet.Capri’s harbor from AnaCapri.Brilliant water colors on a very clear day.Image of the Amalfi coast in the distance from atop of AnaCapri. Just below is the municipality of Capri.Check out this plunge to the sea below which was about 1,850 feet. No mis-steps here.Goats encountered during a hike. I was able to literally smell them coming.Also found atop of the Island was this ancient roman sculpture.Boats seem to be cavorting arounds these rock outcroppings. The homes pictured are a part of the residential portion of Capri.View from my hotel’s balcony during a beautiful sunset..
Hotel’s lobby at the Capri Palace Hotel in AnaCapri.My favorite barista.Hotel’s pool image from the walkway to the bus. Just like a tank at Marine World, but with no fish.Another very trippy image of the pool at night. I wish I walked by here when someone was swimming.These were in someone’s garden. There is a local pre-occupation with these characters. There must be something about Snow White and her dwarfs, but I was unable to figure it out.Geppetto the cobbler making sandals while a very pretty tourist looks on.Sculpted from plaster. Perfectly proportioned too.
This stop was by far my best so far for this trip to Sicily. Ortigia is located just over a short bridge form Siracusa, on the south eastern coast of Sicily. There are few cars here. The streets are devoid of any litter. Parts of the island appear as a movie set, especially at night. This is the historical heart of Siracusa. Walking all over this small island is a pleasure with its tight-medieval lanes, romantically-crumbling (or lovingly-restored) baroque palaces and churches. The restaurants and bars are plentiful and each one unique. With a walking map you can find your way all over this island.
This is where I was able to do a short-term lease. Not impressive from the street, but as you’ll see in some of the following images of the interior, you should not judge a book by its cover, or in this case a villa from the street.Here’s an image of my villa’s game room. I was on the upper most floor of this 3 story building. Only 86 steps up to get here. There was a lift, however it literally took 5 minutes to make the trip up and you thought you might suffocate since there was no ventilation. So I opted for the steps every time.Another angle of the game room.This is my kitchen which was fully equipped and had a full compliment of spices and the like. Helpful since I walked to the local market for seafood and vegetables almost daily.My housekeeper (who again was included with the base lease rate) took this image of me cooking a bountiful cioppino.View from my veranda.This is the veranda. Great spot to enjoy a morning espresso and fresh ricotta cheese with honey.These are Syrian refugees arriving from their war torn country. They have been intercepted by the Italian coast guard. These images are taken from my veranda. During my stay here this was just about a daily occurrence.Closer image of the new immigrants. The woman and children are brought in first. These are just the men and boys.Processing tent. Notice the masks on the police doing the processing.View of the holding area which was taken from my veranda. Here you can see the women and children. It’s such a contrast in life to see such suffering on such a large scale while still enjoying an espresso. I am both lucky and grateful.This was taken just before the Italian authorities delivered 30 or so pizzas for the refugees. Maybe this little smiling girl just got the news. These images put a real human face on this humanitarian tragedy as it still unfolds.I went into this restaurant for lunch and got a special treat. This image is taken from an underground grotto/shrine just under the restaurant’s floor. Notice the tables and chairs on the lucite floor above.Image of the grotto/shrine and the spiral staircase I took to get down here. The water running through this is from the same underground spring that supplies the entire island of Ortigia. Once is flows through here is empties to the sea.
Just one more image because this encounter was so unexpected and cool. Very trippy experience too.
Local Sicilian fisherman on the hunt for dinner. Gotta love the Speedo too. If I could look like him I’d wear one too.
Snails for sale in the local outdoor market. Tasty, and best when you keep the recipe simple, garlic, butter and a little white wine.A local shopkeeper at the market embraces my housekeeper. She looks to be enjoying it too much. This guys sells the best daily made ricotta cheese I tasted on the trip. I never knew what really good ricotta tasted like til I tasted his.I took a boat around the island. Don’t forget to duck here. Otherwise you lose your head. No joke just check the next image.
It was a tight fit under this bridge. Just look. I had to hit the deck.View of Ortigia from the water.Castello Maniace from the water. This was a fortress and defensive site protecting Ortigia. This castle dates back to the thirteenth century.Another image of Ortigia from the water.Bank of Sicily in the background of this beautiful fountain.Local church.Cathedral of Siracusa. The exterior has been power washed and thus appears to be only a few hundred years old, when in fact it is almost 900 years old.La pasagiata. A beautiful daily event happening in the late afternoon and early evening. It is a stroll and time for conversation among friends. These three gentlemen were amongst the people taking part.Courtyard of the Duomo at night. Just like a movie set. There was an accordion player whose beautiful tunes could be heard throughout this piazza.Courtyard of the Duomo at daytime.Great spot for a bottle of Prosecco. Like almost every night.The streets at night. Clean, quiet and safe. Quite the contrast from Palermo a few weeks ago.
Next week I plan to travel to Amalfi and Capri. In the meantime I’m really digging this place. Until next time, be well.
This little town is beautifully scenic. It is perched about 800 feet or 230 meters above the sea below. It is located on the east coast of Sicily, just opposing the tip of the “Italian Boot.” Taormina is home to only 11,000 people. If you visit this little gem do not miss the Greek ruins near the top of Taormina. Positively a highlight. The place is however overrun with tourists.
The village square in Taormina. The church is from the 10th century.Typical street scene.View to the north. Also seen is the Greek amphitheater.View to the south and Mount Etna which is poking through the clouds.Greek ruins near the top of Taormina. The mountain peak visible just above the clouds is Mount Etna.Ancient Greek ruins through which Mount Etna is seen. This ancient theater still plays host to many operatic and theatrical performances. These structures are more than 2000 years old.Park just outside my hotel.The road winds all the way from sea level up to Taormina.Another shot of the square.
Palermo is a trip, and at times a challenge. While there is a lot of beauty it can at times be an assault on all of your five senses. A paradox absolutely. I spent eight days here, which was way too long. Three is probably perfect. I’m not going to provide you guys with a lot of history as you can get that from other sources. I just hope you enjoy the this post as well as the few to follow.
The entrance to my building’s flat was so much more impressive than the actual flat itself. Pictured here is the housekeeper that was included in the rent.Here’s my housekeeper helping me settle in.Graffiti is in no short supply in this city. After a few days I began to take outings with my housekeeper. My broken Sicilian and her broken english blended wellBeati Paoli is the name of a medieval sect which existed in Sicily over 800 years ago. These were knights who fought for the commoners and poor. Also the name of the mediocre restaurant which I happened to love. So much for reviews. Glad I was not dissuaded from this place.
This pic is of me and my favorite and only waiter, Joe Pesci.Here’s the restaurant. The calamari is terrific.Guess what kind of establishment this is? Not a clothing store. It’s a great little restaurant in Cefalu. Say whatever you want, but these Sicilians have style.Is nothing sacred? These little shrines are everywhere, and yes so is the graffiti.This cat was way more relaxed than I was ever able to get here in this city. I felt I was placed in a post apocalyptic movie. And the movie was a bit too long.
This just about says it all. After a few days here I felt the same way. My housekeeper couldn’t read english so she still smiling.
