This stop was by far my best so far for this trip to Sicily. Ortigia is located just over a short bridge form Siracusa, on the south eastern coast of Sicily. There are few cars here. The streets are devoid of any litter. Parts of the island appear as a movie set, especially at night. This is the historical heart of Siracusa. Walking all over this small island is a pleasure with its tight-medieval lanes, romantically-crumbling (or lovingly-restored) baroque palaces and churches. The restaurants and bars are plentiful and each one unique. With a walking map you can find your way all over this island.
This is where I was able to do a short-term lease. Not impressive from the street, but as you’ll see in some of the following images of the interior, you should not judge a book by its cover, or in this case a villa from the street.Here’s an image of my villa’s game room. I was on the upper most floor of this 3 story building. Only 86 steps up to get here. There was a lift, however it literally took 5 minutes to make the trip up and you thought you might suffocate since there was no ventilation. So I opted for the steps every time.Another angle of the game room.This is my kitchen which was fully equipped and had a full compliment of spices and the like. Helpful since I walked to the local market for seafood and vegetables almost daily.My housekeeper (who again was included with the base lease rate) took this image of me cooking a bountiful cioppino.View from my veranda.This is the veranda. Great spot to enjoy a morning espresso and fresh ricotta cheese with honey.These are Syrian refugees arriving from their war torn country. They have been intercepted by the Italian coast guard. These images are taken from my veranda. During my stay here this was just about a daily occurrence.Closer image of the new immigrants. The woman and children are brought in first. These are just the men and boys.Processing tent. Notice the masks on the police doing the processing.View of the holding area which was taken from my veranda. Here you can see the women and children. It’s such a contrast in life to see such suffering on such a large scale while still enjoying an espresso. I am both lucky and grateful.This was taken just before the Italian authorities delivered 30 or so pizzas for the refugees. Maybe this little smiling girl just got the news. These images put a real human face on this humanitarian tragedy as it still unfolds.I went into this restaurant for lunch and got a special treat. This image is taken from an underground grotto/shrine just under the restaurant’s floor. Notice the tables and chairs on the lucite floor above.Image of the grotto/shrine and the spiral staircase I took to get down here. The water running through this is from the same underground spring that supplies the entire island of Ortigia. Once is flows through here is empties to the sea.
Just one more image because this encounter was so unexpected and cool. Very trippy experience too.
Local Sicilian fisherman on the hunt for dinner. Gotta love the Speedo too. If I could look like him I’d wear one too.
Snails for sale in the local outdoor market. Tasty, and best when you keep the recipe simple, garlic, butter and a little white wine.A local shopkeeper at the market embraces my housekeeper. She looks to be enjoying it too much. This guys sells the best daily made ricotta cheese I tasted on the trip. I never knew what really good ricotta tasted like til I tasted his.I took a boat around the island. Don’t forget to duck here. Otherwise you lose your head. No joke just check the next image.
It was a tight fit under this bridge. Just look. I had to hit the deck.View of Ortigia from the water.Castello Maniace from the water. This was a fortress and defensive site protecting Ortigia. This castle dates back to the thirteenth century.Another image of Ortigia from the water.Bank of Sicily in the background of this beautiful fountain.Local church.Cathedral of Siracusa. The exterior has been power washed and thus appears to be only a few hundred years old, when in fact it is almost 900 years old.La pasagiata. A beautiful daily event happening in the late afternoon and early evening. It is a stroll and time for conversation among friends. These three gentlemen were amongst the people taking part.Courtyard of the Duomo at night. Just like a movie set. There was an accordion player whose beautiful tunes could be heard throughout this piazza.Courtyard of the Duomo at daytime.Great spot for a bottle of Prosecco. Like almost every night.The streets at night. Clean, quiet and safe. Quite the contrast from Palermo a few weeks ago.
Next week I plan to travel to Amalfi and Capri. In the meantime I’m really digging this place. Until next time, be well.
This little town is beautifully scenic. It is perched about 800 feet or 230 meters above the sea below. It is located on the east coast of Sicily, just opposing the tip of the “Italian Boot.” Taormina is home to only 11,000 people. If you visit this little gem do not miss the Greek ruins near the top of Taormina. Positively a highlight. The place is however overrun with tourists.
The village square in Taormina. The church is from the 10th century.Typical street scene.View to the north. Also seen is the Greek amphitheater.View to the south and Mount Etna which is poking through the clouds.Greek ruins near the top of Taormina. The mountain peak visible just above the clouds is Mount Etna.Ancient Greek ruins through which Mount Etna is seen. This ancient theater still plays host to many operatic and theatrical performances. These structures are more than 2000 years old.Park just outside my hotel.The road winds all the way from sea level up to Taormina.Another shot of the square.
Palermo is a trip, and at times a challenge. While there is a lot of beauty it can at times be an assault on all of your five senses. A paradox absolutely. I spent eight days here, which was way too long. Three is probably perfect. I’m not going to provide you guys with a lot of history as you can get that from other sources. I just hope you enjoy the this post as well as the few to follow.
The entrance to my building’s flat was so much more impressive than the actual flat itself. Pictured here is the housekeeper that was included in the rent.Here’s my housekeeper helping me settle in.Graffiti is in no short supply in this city. After a few days I began to take outings with my housekeeper. My broken Sicilian and her broken english blended wellBeati Paoli is the name of a medieval sect which existed in Sicily over 800 years ago. These were knights who fought for the commoners and poor. Also the name of the mediocre restaurant which I happened to love. So much for reviews. Glad I was not dissuaded from this place.
This pic is of me and my favorite and only waiter, Joe Pesci.Here’s the restaurant. The calamari is terrific.Guess what kind of establishment this is? Not a clothing store. It’s a great little restaurant in Cefalu. Say whatever you want, but these Sicilians have style.Is nothing sacred? These little shrines are everywhere, and yes so is the graffiti.This cat was way more relaxed than I was ever able to get here in this city. I felt I was placed in a post apocalyptic movie. And the movie was a bit too long.
This just about says it all. After a few days here I felt the same way. My housekeeper couldn’t read english so she still smiling.
Great town with lots happening. But you may want to pity Nice because it is overshadowed by megawatt Riviera neighbors like aristocratic Monaco, red carpet Cannes and the Champagne-soaked st.-Tropez. This is the fifth largest city in France. The population of this sprawling town is about one million. The seaside and the dramatic deep blue waters of the Cote d’Azur are obviously big draws. Also a draw must be the Art Deco architecture. There is also an atmospheric old quarter with an evolving restaurant scene.
View of the city and the beach that goes on for miles.View of Villefranche-sur-Mer. On the other side is Beaulieu-sur-Mer. This village hosted the location for the filming of certain scenes from several James Bond films, as well as, the Michael Caine/Steve Martin film “Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.”The rocky beach in Nice. If you want to be comfortable lying on this surface better bring an air mattress.
The open market.This guy was from Bulgaria and I’m almost sure he has ties to the Russian mafia as well. This place is best known for their oysters. The name of it is the Cafe de Turin. Highly recommend it. He and I drank vodka and consumed oysters for several hours. His lovely escort was difficult to understand as she spoke only Lithuanian.
Eze is located just above the French Riviera at an elevation of 2,300 feet (or 700 meters). Its location is almost equidistant (about 12KM) between Nice and Monaco. It is a fortified mid-evil village with a population of 3,000 people. It is perched like an eagles nest on a narrow rocky peak overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. From the point of taxi drop off it is 345 uphill paces and steps to reach my hotel. The place is worth every grueling step. This was a great place to stay while exploring the coastal towns and villages that comprise the French Riviera.
The hotel is built as part of a 12th century castle. Eze is a pretty village but if you are looking for something off the beaten path this is definitely NOT it. This village is contrasted by the residential Eze-sur-Mer, a seaside “town” between Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Cap d’Ail. Eze-sur-Mer has beaches, water sports, cafes, restaurants and hotels.
View of Eze from the Grand Corniche.View of Eze from the road. The Chateau Eze is at the top.View of the sea from my hotel balcony.Part of the pathway to the hotel. Definitely not for anyone with mobility issues.The entrance to the Chateau Eze.The only other hotel in this quaint village.One of many art studios which abound here.Another image from my balcony.Botanicals and succulents are omnipresent in the fabulous climate. These are the Jardin-Exotique gardens in the foreground.Typical street scene in Eze. It is at first easy to get lost in the maze of narrow winding streets.
Monaco is a sovereign city-state. It is located on the French Riviera and has only 38,000 citizens. It is bordered by France on 3 sides and the remaining side is on the Mediterranean Sea. This place should be on your list of places to see, but once is probably enough. It is truly a spectacle to see, much like Las Vegas in the United States. The display of wealth and the conspicuous consumption is at the same time both amazing and appalling. It seems that at least every 4 out of 5 cars cost more than an average home in any first world country. Monaco has no personal income or wealth taxes. Generally, there are no property taxes either. This might explain in part why so many wealthy people (including Steve Wynn) call this place home. So it comes as no surprise that with all this money sloshing around, Monaco has built up a healthy financial sector, which accounts for roughly 17% of its economy. The entire country of Monaco occupies only 3 quarters of 1 square mile. It is defended by France.
Average rich guys out for a drive in their Bentley.The scene just in front of the Monte Carlo Casino. I was sitting on the curb taking pictures when the local law enforcement asked me to stand as sitting just doesn’t work there. I guess I looked like a vagrant. And I suppose that the folks in their Bentleys should not have to suffer that sight.Cafe de Paris, great brasserie adjacent to the casino. Great spot for people watching, auto watching, and a glass of your favorite whatever.Not the Seinfeld “Comedians in Cars getting Coffee,” just coffee in cars.This unknown tourist was kind enough to lend her fabulous smile to this image just outside this well known establishment.Just another Ferrari on the streets. This had crazy gold leaf accents all over it. Seems a sacrilege to bastardize a Ferrari like this, but I guess the thought is that the gold accent really differentiates it from the thousands of other Ferraris out there.These two were really enjoying their gelato until law enforcement asked them to NOT sit on the grass. I could have warned them after the scolding I experienced after sitting on the curb.Check out Roger Federer who was here for the week playing tennis. He really needs to work on his left arm. It doesn’t look like it even belongs to him. Maria Sharapova has more muscle than this.Changing of the guard. Talk about a low stress job. This is all these guys have to do. Monaco is its own country, however France defends it, if and when necessary. So all these guys have to do is look well pressed and never smile. They belong to the same union as the guys that guard the Vatican.A street near the cathedral. Spotless as is the rest of this tiny country.Parking just outside the casino. Great place for viewing some exotic and expensive machinery.As if I didn’t see enough ridiculously expensive vehicles on the street, I went to the supercar show in town for the weekend. Absolutely crazy.Just look at this composition. The 1965 427 AC Shelby Cobra and the lovely calla lilies. This car was perfect both inside and out. Only 150 were produced that year. These can range in value from $750K to $1.5MM.New Jaguar 2 seater with 800HP. Absolutely stunning.This was outside the autoshow. Right outta James Bond. It is called the “Kormaran.” Just Google it. Truly amazing watercraft. It morphs into six configurations with the push of a button. The goal of its designer was to combine the experience of driving a cabriolet-style super sports car with the precise construction techniques used in the aviation industry. At top speed this $1.5MM base model Kormaran will run at 50MPH. All engines (including its hydrofoil engine) may be upgraded to 900HP. As with any high end watercraft, a myriad of other upgrades are available. These could drive the price to well above $3MM. Happy boating.Cockpit of the Kormaran. When you jump into the driver’s seat you instantly feel your own package getting bigger. Even women experience this phenomenon. Also has seating for two passengers.
Malaga’s history spans nearly 3,000 years, thus making it one of the world’s oldest cities. It traces its history back to the Phoenicians. The Moors ruled Malaga for nearly eight centuries. These invaders from North Africa rendered the city both rich and beaufiful. The Moors left their deep imprint on Malaga.
Malaga leads somewhat of a double life. As the capital of the Costa del Sol, it reflects the festive Spanishness of one of Europe’s prime resort regions. Only the sunny Mediterranean climate and the obligatory siesta link the businesslike and fiesta faces of the city.
Closer to Malaga, trips along the coast survey the appeal of the Costa del Sol resorts – as refined as Marbella (more of a jet set enclave), or as the more bohemian Torremolinos, where the sun coast becomes the fun coast. If I am lucky enough to visit Spain for and extended period of time, this is the area I would call my temporary home. However, because of my schedule time will not permit on this trip.
View from the Fortress walls.Loved the Roman touch of the Roman theater within the city.This building is some 300 years old. Amazing what a good power-washing can do.Pedestrian streets abound in this area of town.Street entertainer as a matador. I think the best part of this act is his pants. I’d almost be prepared to step into the ring with a live bull if I could sport those pants.These guys were really electric and energized. The pooch was a nice touch too. When I contributed to their fund I ask that they be sure to take care of the dog too.Love the idea of maintaining the hell out of the door, but letting these rest of the property go to shit.This Elton John tribute performer was very good and believable. Right down to his classically bad British teeth.At a fabulous tapas restaurant this dude is preparing one of the Spain’s specialties. Wait for it, wait for it, okay see the image below.Spain’s obsession with pigs is evidenced in many restaurants. Not sure I wanted to see this before I ate it, but it was too late. However, after partaking in this treat I had to watch him carve. It truly was a thing of beauty to behold. The loving way he shaved it was just like the way Paul Sorvino shaves the garlic clove when he was in prison in the movie “Goodfellas.”
Most Americans only know Gibraltar’s silhouette as the long lasting Prudential Insurance logo, and know little else. Well, I hope this installment of EarthlyLOCOmotion.com is not too lengthy, but there is quite a bit more to this tiny Country. Gibraltar is a very small (only 7 sq. miles) but amazing place. There are about 30,000 inhabitants here. As the portal to the Mediterranean, the Rock of Gibraltar rises some 1400 ft from the sea. It is not an island as it is linked to the Spanish mainland. Gibraltar is a possession of Britain and in many ways classically British. Most of the inhabitants (whether their descent be Italian, Iberian, Indian, Jewish Morocan or Maltese) – are united in preserving the British connection.
Within the “Rock” there are some 33 miles of tunnels. Some are for auto traffic, while others are for pedestrian use. Some of these were excavated during the various wars fought here. Those have some museum-like exhibits with big guns and related armaments, as well as historical displays.
In a few days time I will be visiting Malaga, Spain so please check it out.
Here is that famous silhouette of the Rock of Gibraltar taken from the sea. Obviously, if you want to play golf your going to have to go elsewhere. There is no room for a course anywhere on the Rock.Seaside community pictured here. Appears to be quite idyllic.The Gibraltar mosque. And no, the swing set in the foreground is not part of the mosque property, as any fun is not permitted.St. Michael’s Cave. Inside the Rock are natural limestone caves. This particular one plays host to many concert performances. Also, these caves were home to some of the last Neanderthal people.These Macaque Monkey appears to be a “take no shit” monkey, and he is. If you roll down the car window and happen to be eating anything he will enter the vehicle and grab whatever you are enjoying. I saw it happen.As well as many people. The stairs were about 12 inches wide and there were about 200 of them. Check out the fangs on these suckers. One good bite and your pretty miserable.
Top of “The Rock,” and obviously not 30 Rock. These monkeys rule this area and as the folklore has it, as long as the monkeys are here, Gibraltar shall remain under British sovereignty. As such, during WWII Churchill order that the furry rascals be fed. I guess everyone bows to some form of superstition now and again. Most of this area is a designated nature preserve.World War II simulated bunker carved into the cliffs.Spain is on the other side of the runway. Besides that, notice the street intersecting the runway. There are traffic lights to stop vehicles when a plane is present. Only about 6 flights take off and land each day.Main pedestrian street lined with many pubs and high-end shops.This english bobby hasn’t much to do except chase these pigeons away. The ramparts in the background which were once used during wartime are now host to yet more shops and pubs. This courtyard is near the Convent which is now home to the governor. The soldier on duty carries out a frequent Changing of the Guard ceremony since he really had nothing else to do.
Madeira is an island approximately 350 miles off the coast of North Africa. It is a province of Portugal. It has been described as the island of eternal spring. Portugal is approximately 600 miles to the northeast. Funchal is the capital and is home to about one-third of the island’s 265,000 people.
Thousands of red tile-roofed homes cling the the steep cliffs that were once carpeted with fennel, their gardens overflowing with greenery and flowers. The climate is as near perfect as it gets since it is in the gulf-stream flow of the Atlantic Ocean. The warmest month has an average temperature of 73 degrees F, while the coolest is 61 degrees F. This island receives a near perfect 28 inches of rain annually. About 55% of that is in November-January.
Year round the clean, clear sea is excellent for bathing, snorkeling, water-skiing and fishing. The streets, as well as the air are almost pristine. Parks and cobbled streets are found to be prevalent. There is an old town the is quite charming, and as you would imagine, very pedestrian friendly. As with most of these european cities there is a great open food market which is filled with produce, meats, and fish.
I took a 3 hour bike tour while I was there and it was fabulous. That day was sunny and 64 degrees F. The tour took me from the old town to the new areas (as depicted in my photo images.) While riding through the newer more cosmopolitan parts of town there were abundant opportunities to be either hit by cars and buses, or have car doors opened in your path. The roads were similar to Rome but with more traffic circles. There were no bike paths and consequently we were in the street with the rest of the vehicles. Since there were 14 participants in the tour I believed my odds to be pretty good for not becoming a statistic. I also remained near the middle of the group for some added protection. I completed this outstanding tour without incident, and so did everyone else. In just a couple of days I will arrive in Gibraltar. Please await for heads up email for that one.
Old town cafe. Flowering trees are everywhere. Some were in pots and some in the ground.Typical cobbled street in the old town. Not much to say about this image.Another cafe and because I’m early no one is here. The menu was great too. Octopus was a specialty. Pity it was only 9:30 AM.Hillside village. No risks of slides because of the abundant vegetation and the fact that annual rainfall is a near perfect 28 inches (or 700 mm.)Ferns are found everywhere. Also important is the fact that there are no snakes on the island. Also of note is that mosquitos are also nonexistent. Another plus for visiting here. If I could only speak Portuguese I consider moving here.Tropical plants and trees are common here. The most ferocious creature one may encounter is a small lizard.Just look at the tuna on this guy’s table. He looks fairly uninspired. Not sure why sales are slow, because this fish could almost sell itself. Perhaps sales are slow because this guy can’t sell. Good thing he works for himself, otherwise he’d be canned. But not his fish. Just sashimi it and I’m in.Anyone for some fresh barracuda? Just take a look at these toothy bastards. Some of the larger ones can be poisonous. So how can you tell? Fillet the fish and get it on ice immediately. Next, give a fillet to your neighbor and put the rest in your refrigerator. The next morning knock on your neighbors door and if he opens it, the fish is OK to eat.Fruit and vegetable market. Typical but not very interesting.
If you have the time and are planning a European holiday try to coordinate it so that you can either sail to Europe from the States, or better yet sail back to the States. I prefer sailing back (west) because of the time zone changes giving you 6 or 7 additional hours, as opposed to losing them. Either way there is no jet lag and you will have an amazing time meeting sojourners from all over our planet. Another good reason for opting for sailing as opposed to flying is that these sailings are what are known as “repositionings.” Basically moving the ship from one part of the world to another, with only a limited number of ports. On this voyage I’ll be spending time in Funchal, Madiera as well as Gibraltar and Malaga, Spain before arriving at Monte Carlo, my point of disembarkation. Consequently, these sailings are relatively cheep in comparison to those stopping at many ports. So, if you like sea days (and there is a lot to like), this slow mode of transportation (18 MPH) might be for you.
I had a trip planned in January where I was sailing from Los Angeles to Auckland New Zealand. Unfortunately, one day in I received an email about a death in the family. The first opportunity to abort the trip and fly back would not occur for another 12 days when the ship arrived in Tahiti. At that point I bailed and returned back to the states. So the transatlantic voyage was in essence a “redo,” if you will.
I’m sailing (or cruising) on a small high-end ship known as the Seabourn Quest. I use the term “sailing” interchangeably with cruising as it is a term which is a part of a rich nautical history and lexicon. This ship has only 450 passengers but is not significantly smaller than a ship carrying 1,600 passengers. It is equipped with all modern stabilizer equipment and is very comfortable.
I meet people from all over the world on board. Most have a great appetite for exploration and more importantly, fun. The crowd is for the most part very interesting to engage with. I rarely get to my cabin before 1 AM, after drinking, dining, more drinking, and of course dancing. It is a pretty good workout both physically and socially. Because the first 10 days out of Fort Lauderdale are sea days, early awakenings are not necessary. This allows for burning the candle at both ends.
Daily life is pretty relaxing. Eating, reading, the gym, daily trivia,and usually some day drinking. This cruise line is all inclusive, and high end as well. So as you might imagine the scene around any bar on board is very friendly. One can be as busy or as useless during these days at sea. Therein lies the beauty of this experience. On sea days there is no place to go and all day to do it. After being at sea for some 6 days, we will not arrive in Madiera for 4 more. Please login into the blog for that experience. Meantime, I must return to the pool deck for some afternoon beverages.
Fellow shipmate from Germany. Fun guy who only got me in trouble once. Some of these Germans can really party. But I believe I hurt him more than he hurt me.Although there are several pools and jacuzzis scattered about the vessel, this is the main pool area.Lunchtime for me. This was a perfectly sautéed wahoo. The french fries were a daily event with or without lunch.Martin shaking me up an awesome vodka martini. He was probably my favorite crew person on board. As soon as he saw me walk into the Observation lounge he started shakin’.Another shipmate. This guy is from Austrialia, as evidenced by his speedo “Aussiebum.” Trust me when I say this photo is his good side.Evening under the stars. And when you are thousands of miles from land there are a crazy amount of them. Acoustics are pretty amazing outside as well.One of many beautiful sunsets.
