Kopi Luwak is coffee that includes part-digested coffee cherries eaten and then defecated by the Asian palm civet (also known as a mongoose). Fermentation occurs as the cherries pass through the animal’s intestines, and after being defecated with other fecal matter, they are collected. Producers argue coffee beans are improved by this process. Part of their reasoning is based upon the belief that the animals are selecting only the best cherries (almost like Juan Valdez). Because of the high cost of production, it is one of the world’s most expensive coffees and can sell for as much as 350 USD per pound. It is produced mainly on the islands of Sumatra, Java, Bali, and Sulawesi. I did have the coffee here and I wish I could say it’s worth the price. However, the whole experience is quite interesting and if you are ever in this area it’s worth the time for a quick visit.
Beginning of the coffee encounter. These are some of the plants producing the fruit.Along the path to roasting. This is a fairly small operation and appears to be utilizing the same techniques as were used 200 years ago.This sign says it all… The literal translation is Bali “Cat shit” coffee.Aggressive mongoose. Definitely not to be accidentally cornered, or confused with a cute and friendly feline.Docile mongoose. Although not in a cage, I still would not pet this one. But look at that cute tongue. I almost couldn’t resist, but I did.These are the “Shitty beans.” You can see the clusters. If you didn’t know otherwise, you might think the clusters were granola bars. And then there’s the job of separating the beans from the “S*@T.The gardens below the processing area.The Roaster, seen here with a curious visitor. She even had most of her teeth. The visitor, not the Roaster. Also note the ergonomically designed tree stumps they are both seated on. The Roaster enjoys hours and hours of pain free use with this stump. If OSHA existed here the coffee would definitely cost more.
Moving on I travelled to the locally famous rice terraces. Tegallalang is one of the more scenic rice paddies that I was able to visit. There are two varieties of rice grown on Bali. One is non-GMO (genetically modified organism) which yields three harvests a year. The other is GMO and produces four harvests annually. It’s impossible to tell the difference, except that the GMO rice has two heads.
Shot from above these very beautiful paddies.Another image.Close up of the young rice plants.
I will be traveling to the Gili Islands and Komodo Island. So look for some action from there.
While here in Bali I was extremely lucky as one of my sponsors pay for a stay at this “Five Star” small boutique resort in Ubud. With only 46 rooms and villas it has a very intimate feel. The Balinese staff are so attentive and friendly. They really made me feel as though I was a part of their family during my stay here. The views around and from the property are amazing as the property borders and is perched atop of a 100 meter high gorge. Koi ponds abound the property and many of the villas. The Como Uma resort is only a 10 minute drive from the center of Ubud, which has lots of bars, restaurants, shopping and of course, temples.
There is a “sister” property about a 20 minute drive from Como Uma by the name of Como Shambala Estate. It is much more quiet and a bit more exclusive with only 30 suites and villas. This property is much more a retreat from everything. I visited that resort for a day and had an incredible experience hiking 525 steps down to a series of fresh water ponds for swimming and soaking. The ponds are in the jungle and about 15 meters from a raging river. See some of the images below. Because I was visiting at the end of the rainy season, the waterfalls were both frequent and flowing.
Approach to the pool area at Como Uma.The pool at Como Uma.Restaurant surrounded by koi ponds.View from restaurant.Walkway to my villa.My humble abode. The air conditioning was critical as the temperatures and humidity were pretty high.Villa view into the jungle below. The plunge below was almost straight down and approximately 250-300 feet.Villa infinity plunge pool. Appears like a luxury, however it is totally required if you want to spend time outside.Better view of the nearly 100 meter plunge to the jungle floor. The birds could be heard 24/7. Really felt like a jungle. Also interesting to note that at least for me the mosquitos were non-existent.One of the guests. Loved the colors of these snails. Also a pretty good size for escargot.Yoga studio atop the gorge. Really conducive for this activity.Spa reception area and surrounding koi ponds. I was so relaxed just sitting here, I didn’t even need to get a massage.Koi ponds in Como spa area. Amazing architectural design for this part of the resort.Market in Ubud Center. Almost everything sells for half of the sticker price.Friendly young merchant. Cute but not too talented. I offered to buy some stuff just to get him to STOP singing.One of the many temples in Ubud Center.Main Street in Ubud Center.Another shot of the street scene.Beginning of the walk down to the ponds. “Take me to the river.”The walk. “Drop me in the water.”Waterfall on the way down.First pond encounter.Another pond. All of these are few by rainwater flowing from the jungles above.Yet more. As can be seen here, not to many people. Maybe it’s the 525 steps to get here.Another shot of a pretty magical place. I was able to spend several hours here and enjoyed every moment.
Nyepi is the Balinese “Day of Silence” that is commemorated every new year. I travelled to mountains in Ubud to witness this event for myself and was not in the least disappointed. The celebration taking place in the following images happened the night before the “Day of silence.” Each village has its own parade. “Ogoh-ogoh” are the statues or floats built for the “Ngrupuk” parade which takes place on the evening before the “Day of Silence.” Most of the “floats” are created each year and then burnt as an offering of purification, as the entire parade is meant as the purification of the natural environment of any spiritual pollutants emitted from the activities of beings (especially humans). The predominant religion on Bali is Hindu and everyone is extremely peaceful.
The “Day of Silence” observed from 6AM to 6AM the following day and is reserved for self-reflection. Consequently, anything which may interfere with that is restricted. The main restrictions are no fires, no lights, no working, no traveling (airports are closed), no street travel (except for emergency vehicles), beaches are closed, no entertainment, and for some no talking or eating.
As a traveler and non-Hindu person I was confined to my hotel, but free to do what I wished within the premises, although there was no social media on the internet. Before and after Nyepi many purification and offering rituals take place.
Typical float, but this one depicts both positive and negative. Not hard to decipher which is which.Preparing for the parade. Interesting to note that when carried during the actual parade the height of these floats often exceeds that of the power lines suspended above. Consequently, a person equipped with a 6 meter bamboo pole escorts the floats as they proceed. His job is to lift the power lines high enough to allow the floats to pass underneath. As you can well imagine this really impedes the parade’s flow.Warming up before the big event. Many times children are carrying the floats, although it takes about 30 or more of them.Everyone participates in this event. Young and old, boys and girls, rich and poor, tall and short, thin and fat, smart and dumb, conservatives and liberals, slow and fast, nimble and awkward, straights and gays alike. No one is prohibited from participating.Rainbows of colorful clothes adorn these young children. Another thing I noted was that even young children roam unescorted by parents. The biggest danger here is not posed by other humans, but rather by being hit by one of the ever present scooters and motorbikes.Typical village street and again the flow of scooters here is relentless. Nearly impossible to get an image with a street without one of the ubiquitous scooters.Celebration with both positive and negative representations. The goal is to vanquish the negative and create a balance with God. This parade after nightfall felt like a scene from a James Bond film.Quite obvious here is the tongue on this bull. Not really, but the penis evidenced here dates back to early Brahman’s practice of worshiping the penis of the supreme god, Shiva. Quite a sizable “Johnson” on this bull.The negative representation is depicted in the float above.The negative representation in real life. Quite theatrically, this guy moves and dances in a very menacing way.The positive representation (in the form of these dancers) is meant to vanquish the negative and follows the menacing dancer above.Some of this is probably frightening for young children and babies. Although this child looks pretty unaffected by it all. Hard to miss the smart phones (which look like juxtapositions) in the context of this image.
I am traveling though Bali for a bit and will be posting more. So if you’re interested please click back in when alerted. Until then, be safe.
This city plays host to three of the most popular religions on the planet. This is no more apparent than in the Old City of Jerusalem. Before I write any more of this installment, it is imperative that the readers know that this author is agnostic, bordering on atheistic. It will help to explain my perspective and the somewhat irreverent tone of what you are about to see and read. One of the days I spent in Jerusalem happened to be Good Friday, which this year happened to coincide with the Jewish Passover holiday. As is typical the Muslims were also observing and obeying their rigorous religious rituals that day. It was a “Perfect Storm” of religion.
As a result of having thousands and thousands of people here, the narrow streets were incredible congested and not passable without an abundance of patience. The military and police presence was strong and omnipresent. At times the crowds were restrained by military barricades. It caused me to feel both safe and threatened simultaneously. I was more concerned with being trampled than shot, stabbed, or blown up.
Because it was Good Friday I encountered a procession of at least a thousand or so Christians moving through the narrow streets reenacting the crucifixion of Jesus Christ (see image below). The dress and look of all three religions is each uniquely bizarre. But in my view the Jews win what appears to be a competition of sorts.
The Western Wall (A/K/A the Wailing Wall.) This is known as the Western Wall because it it the only remaining wall of the original temple. Interesting to note, because there are male and female sections for praying, transgender people have been prevented from praying here. In 1995 a Jewish transgender woman was denied access. Therefore, one might surmise that transgenders don’t belong in any of these religions.The Jews take Passover very seriously. Not only bread, but beer too is forbidden to be consumed. Consequently, I frequented many of the Arab establishments.A common site, burnt piles of bread before Passover. Over the top! I suppose the trash isn’t an option because a weaker jew might be tempted to dumpster dive and pick out the discarded bread.I’m not sure if this “Wailer” was surprised by my camera or maybe something bigger is going on here. I think a possibility is that he realized just how frightening religion can be.The mosque known as Dome of the Rock.Looking east you see Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque, the Redeemer Church, Hurva Synagogue and the Basilica of the Agony. All major religions are represented. Also, note (as I learned during my stay in the West Bank,) that roof-top black water tanks indicate the residence of a Palestinian. Here you can see just a few.Military and police exercising crowd control during the Christian procession. Just like traffic lights control automobile flow, the military controls the religious flow here. First Christians then Muslims were allowed to pass. This took place in the Muslim quarter of the Old City, hence not to many Jews. Thank God, haha.The wall of the Old City. The lowest levels of the wall date back to the the period before Christ.Theatrical reenactment of the crucifixion procession. Complete with escorting Romans and music. The players in their portrayal were very enthusiastic.Close up of the star of the show.Wow! I wish I could say that these Jews set themselves apart, but they don’t. All of the orthodox Jews look and dress in this fashion. You’re never too young to begin growing those peyot (pronounced “pe’ahs”). Orthodox Jews grow these because of the Biblical injunction against shaving the ‘corners’ of one’s head. Sounds completely rational to me.These are Christian Ethiopian worshipers bowing toward their temple which was already jam packed with worshipers. I encountered this ritual almost immediately after the crucifixion procession. It seems that at almost any moment in the Old City, a group is worshiping something.This unknown tourist, who resembled Anthony Bourdain made blowing the shofar (a ram’s horn) look easy. He was surprisingly quite good.Just one more of this spectacle. I couldn’t resist.
This city is holy to both Christians and Muslims. It is the birthplace of Jesus Christ. Jesus is the Son of God to the Christians, and a divinely inspired prophet to Muslims. The city has a long pre-Roman history dating back to the 14th century BC.
Market on the way to the Nativity Church.Omar Mosque adjacent to Manger Square.The Manger just outside the Nativity Church. Everything is life-size.
One of the earlier “Pope Mobiles.” Here an unruly tourist violates the rule of boarding the vehicle itself. He was quickly escorted away.Home to somebody.View of the Bethlehem neighborhood. In the distance is an Israeli settlement located in the West Bank. Even from a distance one can see these are well built.Young Palestinians aggregating to protest conditions in the West Bank.
As with any coin, “The Wall” has two sides. I traveled to, and spent time on both sides. The Wall is a separation barrier in the West Bank along the Green Line. On one side are (the Israelis), who consider it a security barrier against terrorism, while on the other side are (the Palestinians) who consider it an “Apartheid” wall. At its completion it will be 440 miles in length, most of which is and will be constructed on Palestinian land. The Wall’s construction began in 2000 during the Second Intifada. Since it’s construction began the incidence of suicide bombings initiating from the West Bank has decreased significantly. But while the barrier was presented as a temporary security measure in a time (2000-2006) of heightened tensions, it has since been rapidly associated with a future political border between Israel and Palestine. I take no political position with regard to the Wall.
Street view of the Banksy Hotel (A/K/A The Walled Off Hotel). Notice the Wall on the extreme right of the frame. The streets are mostly rubble left over from some shelling in the not too distant past. The limited but good restaurant features a “Walled Off salad.” Needless to say, these people still have a sense of humor.View from my hotel room at The Banksy Walled Off Hotel. These watch/gun towers are manned 24/7 by the Israeli army.Another balcony view. Beyond the Wall lies Israel.These tourists are viewing The Wall from the Hotel’s patio. As you can see the Wall is at least 15 meters (or 45 feet) in height. It is topped off with high gauge razor wire. The Palestinian side is covered with graffiti from writers from all over the world, most writing in sympathy for the Palestinian cause and bringing messages for general peace.Artwork in the Hotel’s lobby. Depicted is an artist’s conception of an Israeli tank bulldozing a Palestinian home. There is within this small hotel an awesome museum which chronicles the entire period of the West Bank from the 1940s to current day.Quirky artwork. Notice the surveillance cameras mounted as though they were hunted trophy animals. Nice assortment of slingshots too.He greets you at the door to the Hotel. Reminds me a bit of the Grand Budapest Hotel.Behind this false bookcase you find the staircase to the rooms. This hotel seems to be a mix of crazy, reality, fantasy, and a dash of Addams Family thrown in.Another lobby sculpture. The tear gas being sprayed is dove feathers. Quite the juxtaposition.Some of the Wall’s graffiti. The quote reads “We can’t live, so we wait for death.” Very sad and very true.View from an apartment rooftop in Aida, one of the first Palestinian refugee camps in the West Bank. Here we see one completely torched watch tower. The green space on the other side will belongs to Israel, after the one muslim family living here vacates the Israelis will take over.Remains almost everyone’s hero here. No not Ringo Starr, Yasser Arafat.A walk along the Wall.View of Aida, Palestine. The black water tanks designate that the occupants of the homes are Palestinian. This rule also applies when in Israel.This little girl, at least for the moment has something to skip about.Another street image.This walking tour I took led by a local man was riveting.
My next stop is the Town of Bethlehem, birthplace of you know who. It is only a 45 minute walk from the point of Wall where I now stand. So look for it pretty soon. Of course I’ll send you a heads up email if you are registered on my site. Thanks for clicking in.
Monemvasia is worth the effort to see. The island is quite “Gibraltar-like.” It is one big rock off the east coast of Peloponnese, in Greece and linked to the mainland by a short causeway. It is tiny. Only 300 meters wide and a kilometer long. The walled town is remarkably romantic. It is a living museum of Byzantine, Ottoman, and Venetian history dating back to the 13th century.
Upon my approach. Maarku’s yacht was small enough this time so that we were not required to moor, but instead could dock and walk ashore.The walled little town shot from Maaku’s vessel.Local hotel. The landscaping needed some attention, but the place looked charming.This little village is a walled city dating back some 700 years. The site of a powerful medieval fortress. The towns walls and many Byzantine churches remain from that period.Walled city battlement.Really quaint Restaurants dot the labyrinth of narrow streets here. We chose to eat and drink our way through this town, stopping to enjoy a bite and a beverage at about a half dozen or so places.Seaside view. Again, unless you are traveling by boat, this little gem is a difficult place to access. That said, it is worth the effort and once you are here you’ll agree. Maarku is great at finding these really interesting and off the beaten path places. But he should be as this part of the world is his home.Aerial shot of the island. Easy to see the western facing walled town.
One of the beaches seen upon our departure. Once back on board we yet again enjoyed some more Greek beer as our cook prepared an awesome dinner of local fish. So fortunate to have been able to rendezvous in the Greek Isles with my old friend Maarku. And I am much obliged for his hospitality, not to mention being able to share his ocean vessel all this time.
We are not sure where we are headed next but the weather is still good, so stay tuned.
Santorini is in the shape of a big C, surrounding the caldera which is the active volcano area. Most of the towns and villages are situated on the top of the island. The island is very touristy and it is easy to see why. It is entirely scenic. There are no bad views here. With multicolored cliffs soaring over 1000 feet from the sea-drowned caldera, it rests in the middle of the indigo Aegean sea. It appears like a giant slab of layered cake.
View of some of the islands surrounding Santorini. Here I was able to swim in the ocean where there are thermals created by the geological activity in the caldera.Santorini in the distance. What could be at first mistaken for snow at the top of Santorini is the village of Finikia.Athinios Port and the village of Megalohon at the top. This is where we moored for the day.View of the caldera from atop of Santorini. You can’t miss all the cruise ships in the water below.View of the caldera from Nea Kameni. The hike up this volcanic crater was great.I had lunch and some Greek beers here. The beers were necessary in order to counter my slight dizziness from the height and the sheer drop of the cliffside. The food was great but this place is not for anyone with acrophobia.This is home to a man who as local folklore has it, lost his young lover and retreated from the world to live here on this tiny island near Santorini. He has been here for some 20 years. I’m sure this place is very reasonable. Check out the rug on his back.My departure from this picturesque little Greek Island. One negative to this island is that unless one travels by cruise ship, it is difficult to get here. I was fortunate to have my Greek friend Maarku who resides on his comfortable yacht with me, so getting here was easy, not to mention the party we had along the way.
Please check in for my next island stop with Maarku, the island of Monemvasia.
This area is one of the oldest I have ever been to. Founded before 900 BC. The city was occupied for nearly 2,500 years. The corresponding periods in time are from the Greek Dark Ages until The Late Middle ages. It lay buried in sentiment for nearly 800 years and was discovered in the 1800s by archaeologists John Wood and Otto Benndorf. It remains an active dig site and possibly won’t be fully excavated for decades. It is located on the south-west coast of modern Turkey.
The Library of Celsus.Another perspective of The Library.These images just keep coming at me.Main Street which is several hundred yards long.Built by the Greeks around 300 BC this amphitheater is incredible.Of course a cemeteryLunch at a home in a nearby village. I met a local at the archaeological site who was kind enough to invite me to their home for lunch.View of the village street on my way up to my host’s home for lunch.View from my host’s home.Another perspective without the portion of deferred maintenance.Village area with kiosks and shops. Notice the minaret in the distance.
These places were as romantic as places can be. From Amalfi I took a 45 minute ferry to Capri. The Isle of Capri is one of the most visited places in Campania. It is this place that was celebrated in Homer’s works where Odysseus sails past the island, and narrowly escaped the fate of those who hear the voices of the Sirens. Thus the island has a mythical charm, as well as natural treasures, through the writings and legends of Ancient Greece.
The island is composed of two municipalities: Capri and Anacapri. The latter is built on a high plateau, which affords staggering views of sheer cliffs from dizzying vantage points as you’ll see in the images below.
View from a point above Amalfi.View from my hotel balcony. I spent three days here mostly eating and drinking. During that time I must have walked up and down about 10,000 steps. Very little here is on the same level. One round trip to the beaches below is approximately 1,500 steps. This is not a place for the mobility challenged.Another perspective of Amalfi at dusk.The same stunning view taken during the day.Capri’s harbor upon my ferry’s arrival.The road to AnaCapri is in many spots only one lane. If one suffers from acrophobia it’s advisable to keep your eyes closed. Otherwise the trip would be impossible. The hotel I booked into was in AnaCapri.Another image of this wild road.This continued to amaze me as well as freak me out when traveling on it. Any slight tremor and this structure will crumble like a box of Oreo cookies when dropped. The resulting plunge to the sea is approximately 1,400 feet.Capri’s harbor from AnaCapri.Brilliant water colors on a very clear day.Image of the Amalfi coast in the distance from atop of AnaCapri. Just below is the municipality of Capri.Check out this plunge to the sea below which was about 1,850 feet. No mis-steps here.Goats encountered during a hike. I was able to literally smell them coming.Also found atop of the Island was this ancient roman sculpture.Boats seem to be cavorting arounds these rock outcroppings. The homes pictured are a part of the residential portion of Capri.View from my hotel’s balcony during a beautiful sunset..
Hotel’s lobby at the Capri Palace Hotel in AnaCapri.My favorite barista.Hotel’s pool image from the walkway to the bus. Just like a tank at Marine World, but with no fish.Another very trippy image of the pool at night. I wish I walked by here when someone was swimming.These were in someone’s garden. There is a local pre-occupation with these characters. There must be something about Snow White and her dwarfs, but I was unable to figure it out.Geppetto the cobbler making sandals while a very pretty tourist looks on.Sculpted from plaster. Perfectly proportioned too.
